Apparently I am Lanying’s cake-buddy. She wants to eat cake with me in Munich. Well, so far I haven’t eaten the steak I promised myself. I am here in London eating soup for supper every night because I ate too much kaiserschmarren in Salzburg in December.
Lanying has discovered that there is a restaurant in London that serves kaiserschmarren. I have promised to take her there. It never hurts to offer an inducement to tempt a loved one to return.
Oh, I’ve found a review by Terry Durack in The Independent.
There are none of the usual accoutrements one associates with a London restaurant opening in the 21st century – no chopsticks set beside the knives and forks, no foam sauces, no appetisers in shot glasses and no funky communal tables. Instead, there is viennoiserie for breakfast, coupe wine glasses, coatracks and brass reading lamps, and the finest, sheerest linen stretched over tiny tables.
While the former car showroom/bank/noodle restaurant has been modelled after the grand coffee houses of Prague, Vienna and Budapest, it has a human scale: tall-ceilinged without being mausoleum-like, and frightfully grand without reducing its inhabitants to irrelevance.
Importantly, seating has been arranged in brasserie style so that one can see and be seen across the length and breadth of the place. Tonight, those seeing and being seen include Jools Holland, Mick Hucknall, Sam Taylor-Wood and David Furnish, but really, take your pick. The Wolseley is where plebs and celebs mingle in a happy hotch-potch of cashmere and brushed cotton, kitten heels and trainers, pearls and pullovers.
It will all feel very familiar, whether you are new pleb or old celeb. The doorman, Sean McDermott formerly of The Ivy, meets you at the front, and either Mr Corbin or Mr King will greet you if you have ever once stepped foot in one of their premises.
The menu, too, is familiar; full of things you want, from fresh oysters and caviar to omelettes and pasta, from grilled fish and spit roasts to hot dogs and hamburgers. In keeping with the Vaguely Viennese theme, there is a sprinkling of Mittel Europa specialties such as Hungarian goulash, Nurnberger bratwurst and kaiserschmarren (sweet omelette pancake for two).
I’m glad he mentioned the kaiserschmarren. It sounds perfect.